Pattern: Biker Jacket from Burda Style 01/2017 Issue
Time to Make: A Thousand Years
Material: 2 Yards Flannel Backed Pleather, 1 Yard China Silk, 5 Zippers, Interfacing
Total Cost to Make: $38
I’m not sure what possessed me to make this biker jacket – it’s the last thing I need! But when I saw the January issue of Burda Style magazine, I knew I had to make it. Sometimes I make things just to see if I can – and I almost couldn’t!
If you’ve never sewn pleather before – let me tell you. It is not forgiving. You cannot rip a seam out because the needle leaves holes in the pleather. So if you make a mistake, you must cut out a new piece.
This is the first time I’ve ever used a pattern from Burda Style magazine. In case you’ve never seen one, it is a European magazine that comes out once a month and has around 45 patterns in it. All the patterns are included on a paper insert and you trace out the pattern pieces for the garment you’re making. Because all the patterns are on one sheet, it looks like chaos – totally intimidating – but easy once you understand where to find each piece.
Once I figured out where to find my pattern pieces, I traced them all out. And then I made my first mistake – I didn’t draw on the seam allowances. *Burda patterns don’t include seam allowances* I should have redrawn the patterns pieces with seam allowances, but instead I pinned the pieces to the fabric and then drew the seam allowances on. This wasn’t terribly accurate, and next time I will definitely include them onto the tracing paper before I cut them out!
I cut out and sewed the lining first so that I could make any necessary fit adjustments. I cut out a European size 40 as per their size charts and it fit perfectly! I love when that happens. Once the lining was finished, I proceeded to cut out the pleather. Note – you have to tape the pattern pieces to the back of the pleather and then cut it out because you can’t use pins. I also omitted the elbow patches because I’m not a fan.
This particular pattern was featured in their step by step sew along. I figured out that I had to use tape on my presser foot because it was sticking to the pleather and not allowing the fabric to feed through. Other than that, all was good until I came to step 16 and totally lost the plot.
I am the first to admit that I have a hard time following instructions generally, but I’m pretty sure something got lost in the translation. I have no idea what I was supposed to do at that point, so I had to go my own way from that point on. It worked out though, even though there was more hand stitching than I generally like to do. All in all, I like how the jacket came together even with all the mistakes I made.
Here’s where I made mistakes – I somehow forgot to add interfacing to the collar but it was too late to fix it because, pleather. I also cut the pocket slits where the zipper goes according to the pattern guidelines but I should have cut it to the zipper length instead because the cut was too long. The instructions have you glue the teeny tiny seam allowance back and then sew in the zipper. Not fun! And when I finished, some of the pocket fabric was showing through to the front. That’s ok though, I fixed it with a black sharpie.
I love the jacket but I probably won’t make it again – one biker jacket is plenty.